Brick is probably the strongest and most dependable of the building materials utilized in residential construction. Many homes constructed with full masonry brick and block structures are still in existence after being subjected to the environmental elements for hundreds of years.

The first thing you may wish to determine is if the walls are a brick veneer or solid masonry-type construction. The best and easiest way to tell is to look for a wood sill plate under the floor joists in the basement or crawl space. If a sill plate is present, you know for sure that it is a veneer wall. If there is no sill plate, you can be about 95% sure that it is an 8 inches or thicker masonry wall. Veneer walls should have weep holes at or close to the bottom of the wall, visible from the outside. Brick veneer is a 4-inch layer of bricks used only as a facing material, and is not load bearing. Solid masonry walls, 8 inches or thicker, will utilize 2 layers of brick and/or concrete or cinder blocks to carry the floor and roof loads of the residence.

The bricks most builders use in today’s construction are referred to as “face” bricks. These bricks are used as a veneer on frame buildings. The masonry brick veneer should be attached to the supporting wooden framing of the walls. The most common of the brick ties is a corrosive-resistant, galvanized steel metal strap/tie, which is essentially a one-inch strip of corrugated sheet metal. The ties are nailed to the wood framing, and then bent outward to lay over the courses of the brick and embed into the mortar. The corrugated sheet metal should be a minimum of number 22 U.S. gauge material and should be placed no more than 24 inches on center, horizontally within the wall.

Each tie that is installed should not support more than three square feet of wall area. Brick veneer ties can also be made of a stranded wire that should be at least a number 6 U.S. gauge wire, which is embedded in the mortar joint of the wall. Many houses have brick veneer that has been improperly tied to the building framing. Improper ties may result in bowing of the brick veneer wall and cracking at weak areas, typically above and below the window and door openings. Since the ties are concealed within the mortar joints of the brick, it is important that a careful inspection be conducted of all masonry surfaces. Look for bowing, cracking or shifting of the brick away from the structure at window and door areas and at the end of the wall. Exterior masonry veneer should not be attached to any wooden component at any point more than 25 feet above the grade level.

Check the veneer wall on the inside for evidence of water penetration. If water is getting into the wall or condensation is developing, the flashing should be directing the water to the weep holes. If the flashing is not correct, water stains or water may be seen at the sill plate area.

Brick mortar deteriorates over time. The amount of time is dependent upon the mortar mix, workmanship and the brick. Mortar problems should be apparent. If the brickwork has to be pointed, the cost will, for the most part, be dictated by its hardness. The cost range for brick pointing is wider than any other component, due to this hardness issue—approximately $3.00 per square foot (SF) for soft, easy to cut out mortar; more than $10.00/SF for very hard mortar.

Brick deterioration generally occurs in one of two ways—spalling and deterioration. Spalling is caused by moisture getting into the brick, freezing and 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of the surface separates and falls off. This damage will be apparent, and the remaining part of the brick will still be relatively hard.

Deterioration of soft brick looks like it is being worn by natural elements. This is typically a salmon or an orange, clay brick that was intended for use on the inside layer of a solid masonry wall.